The Dining Table Arrangement as a Reflection of Society.
The sharing table or communal table, a common dining feature in many Asian countries, including Thailand, is referred to as a “food set” or simply “set” in Thai. This terminology conveys the image of individuals coming together to share a meal, portraying the collective nature of dining.
“The set” represents an intricate pattern created by humans, encompassing decisions about what to eat, how to cook, when to eat, who partakes in the meal, and how food and drink are consumed. These practices, while often influenced by social rules, religious customs, or even legal regulations, underscore the deep bond between society and food. Sharing meals, as a fundamental framework and guideline in shaping human life.
A common dining table arrangement involves placing several plates of food in the center for communal sharing, with each person having a separate plate of rice. This design of dining table arrangement reflects traditional practices particularly in the past or in other provinces. People unite through thick and thin because being on one’s own can be harder to achieve the goals. Collectivism, therefore, lies at the core of social dynamics particularly in agricultural societies where it is more recognizable than in urban settings. In these communities, every family shares the same food, regardless of wealth or status. As industry and capitalism replaced agriculture, urbanization pushed people away from self-reliance in food production and communal sharing. The demands of large-scale capital, coupled with the structure of modern jobs and salaries, limited people’s time and energy. Consequently, a single dish for an individual has become more practical and replaced traditional communal dining practices.
Learning about the food set is a journey into the past, achieved through careful study of images and records of food-related activities. From the time when people gathered to share meals, it is evident that communal dining fostered strong societal bonds. This shared food experience not only reflects a way of life but also serves as a transmission of intangible knowledge and wisdom shaped by lived experiences passing down through generations, or what is known as tacit knowledge. Selecting food for the dining table used to be a natural process, as cooking and eating were daily activities. For instance, if shrimp paste chili dip was served, there would be no curry featuring shrimp paste on the table, as the strong flavor of shrimp paste would dominate. Instead, a clear soup might be chosen to avoid overlapping flavors and scents.
When preparing a coconut milk curry, selecting the right type of shrimp paste is essential to complement the chili paste and balance the flavors. Similarly, if serving a spicy jungle curry, it is common to pair it with Hor Mok, a traditional Thai steamed fish in curry custard, to soothe the intense heat of the chili and aromatic herbs in the jungle curry. The use of banana leaves in preparing Hor Mok plays a crucial role in enhancing its flavor and requires much time to prepare. This technique was once a fundamental piece of knowledge passed down in Thai households, but it is becoming increasingly rare in modern times. Even professional chefs often struggle to consistently achieve the same level of excellence in this traditional approach.